If your bathtub is level, you can make a mark on the back wall at the top of the tub flange (lip). This is one step that you want to get right before moving on. Once your floor patch is dry, set your bathtub down and check for level. If you plan on reusing the faucet or any accessories, be sure to handle them with care when you removing.Īlso, it is helpful to put all of the parts in a bag or box so everything is together and doesn’t get lost during your renovation. You may also need an Allen wrench to remove some of the pieces. You’ll probably need a screwdriver to unscrew it from the water lines. Start by removing the shower head, tub spout, handle and drain cover.

Removing the old bathtub and/or shower is next! Once it is off, you can turn the faucet in the shower/tub on to drain out any water that is in the lines still.

Coated exterior construction screws (1 5/8″ & 2″)īefore you do any work in a bathroom, you should always start by turning off the water at the main line.

Supplies needed for installing a bathtub: How To Install A Bathtub: Step-by-Step Tutorial The Steel ones just feel more sturdy and as a result, we think they will likely last longer. They are a little easier to install and seem to be easier to clean and a little more durable.

In the past, we’ve always gone with Porcelain-Enameled Steel (like this one), which we installed in our kid’s farmhouse style bathroom.Īlthough a bit more expensive, we now have determined that we prefer the Porcelain-Enameled Steel tubs. The bathtub we chose was Acrylic and this was the first time we have installed an Acrylic bathtub. Learn more about the different pros and cons of each bathtub material here. A Quick Note About Bathtub Materialsīathtubs are typically either made of Porcelain (with a Steel Base or Cast Iron), Acrylic, Fiberglass, or Marble. As seen in the photo above, there is a built-in bathtub support system (the black stuff in the picture), which makes it easier to install and more durable. I love that this bathtub requires no mortar bed. It offers direct-to-stud installation and has a built-in flange for nailing into the studs. This product is made from something called “ProCrylic”, which is a non-porous durable, high-gloss acrylic that “provides all of the benefits of acrylic without the need for the rough, abrasive fiberglass backing”. We went with the Delta Classic 400 60-inch Rectangular Alcove Bathtub with a Left Drain in High Gloss White. I thought I would include this picture that I snapped while Logan was putting the new tub into the bathroom because it was so interesting! If you are curious, this is what the underside of the bathtub looked like.

Tips for installing alcove tub